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Cooking by Hand, by Paul Bertolli
Download PDF Cooking by Hand, by Paul Bertolli
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From Publishers Weekly
Bertolli (Chez Panisse Cooking), former chef at Chez Panisse and now chef and co-owner of Oliveto restaurant in Oakland, Calif., persuasively encourages cooks to understand ingredient essentials and to appreciate the open-ended joy of learning and discovery. With stimulating essays on everything from gathering wild mushrooms and types of pasta flour to a 14-page section on the wonders of balsamic vinegar, Bertolli is nothing less than a pied piper for the Italian kitchen. Irresistibly, he explains how to replicate his restaurant's take on the Bloody Mary by using fresh tomatoes, how to prepare Risotto of Leeks with Balsamico and how to plan a menu by choosing dessert first, thus ensuring that it is a fitting conclusion for preceding courses. Atypically arranged in thematic sections-"Twelve Ways of Looking at a Tomato," "Bottom-Up Cooking," "The Whole Hog"-this volume is seductive, both in voice and because some of the 120-plus recipes, such as the one for Saltimbocca of Chicken, are so conversationally presented as to be narratives rather than precise lists of components and directions. When Bertolli extols the virtues of a home extruder machine for making fresh macaroni or supplies an illustrated seven-page procedure for curing prosciutto at home, he often gives the home cook a process to marvel at rather than aspire to. But even then, his enthusiasm for the result is infectious. This is an absorbing effort throughout. Copyright 2003 Reed Business Information, Inc.
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From Booklist
Dedicated chefs recognize that every ingredient is unique and that the flavors and textures of a finished dish rely on each component's fundamental excellence. Not only is season important to harvesting the best but geography is critical, too. Paul Bertolli's Oliveto Restaurant in Oakland, California, makes use of the best of local produce of land and of sea. Cooking by Hand summarizes his approach. Not content with commercial dried pasta, Bertolli takes pages and pages of text to explain the significance of flours and how their milling affects the finished product. He elaborates how different grains such as spelt and farro produce different pastas. The sauces he offers are classics: Amatriciana, rabbit, truffles, butter and sage, and arrabbiata. His recipe for basic ragu consumes paragraphs. Bertolli serves up a definitive approach to hog butchering and sausage making, offering recipes for cotechino sausage and formulas for curing pork products. The serious Italian cook will revel in Bertolli's detailed approach. Mark KnoblauchCopyright © American Library Association. All rights reserved
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Product details
Hardcover: 288 pages
Publisher: Clarkson Potter; 1 edition (August 19, 2003)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 9780609608937
ISBN-13: 978-0609608937
ASIN: 0609608932
Product Dimensions:
8.3 x 1 x 10.3 inches
Shipping Weight: 2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.6 out of 5 stars
42 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#52,788 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
There are many cookbooks out there that treat food as secondary. Their first concerns are time [Rachel Ray's focus on 30 minute recipes], waistlines [a new diet cookbok every day], money [cooking on a budget], impressing the neighbors [cooking quick, vapid, and flashy tray-foods], etc. It's remarkable, even in our food-neurotic culture, that so few cookbooks deal first and last with FOOD. Paul Bertolli's Cooking by Hand isn't just focused on food, it is passionately, single-mindedly, worshipfully, crazily in love with food and with ingredients, and with food's ability to draw friends and family together. This lusty focus generated a book like no other. In it, Bertolli efuses about tomatoes, engages in much hearty gesticulating about pork trimmings, goes on for seven pages about home prosciutto-making, writes a tear-jerking letter to his infant son about balsamic vinegar, and philosophizes at some length about terroir as a metaphor for human development. And, somehow, he pulls it off. His enthusiasm is infectious. My overwhelming sense of Paul Bertolli after reading this book [and cooking from it] is that he is totally, profoundly, madly in the thrall of good food. He makes other chefs look tepid or undercommitted. I'd probably have a hard time working for him, in the face of such over-riding passion every day, but I will be travelling 1,000 miles to his restaurant this fall because he's ignited in me a hunger that eschews caution.I am happy to report that the recipes stand up to all the heavy breathing. The conserva of tomatoes has revolutionized my sauce-making. The illuminating instructions for sugo have caused some very quiet, almost prayerful pasta courses at my table. The Bitter Orange Cake with Compote of Blood Oranges is one of those foods that will end a meal in such a way that you will feel haunted for weeks until you get it in your mouth again.I highly recommend this book, both as cookbook and as a gospel.
I have this book in my library here at the restaurant and twice over the past two years it has been stolen just before the chef/thief was fired. Odd recommendation but honestly, if a book is stolen, it must be good. Out of the hundred or so food/cook related books on our shelves, this is the one that has been repeatedly pilfered. I wouldn't mind so much if I thought these guys would actually read and learn from it, which I seriously doubt since they were fired for being lazy. I remember being a college student who thought that if I owned a book it meant I knew what was in it. Wrong! Took me a while to learn I was Wrong! Now I keep Cooking By Hand locked in my office. One of these days I intend to cook my way through it. Front to back, preferably in an agriturismo in Umbria. This book makes nostalgia boil over.
This book was inspiring to read. I don't watch much TV, so I'm not up on celebrity chefs, but the author's writing style was quite readable, beautiful, and invited one to enter the kitchen with love and respect for the ingredients, the process, oneself and the diners. The recipes are for basic foods, though I have to admit, I enjoyed reading the book, rather than making each recipe. So much of cooking at home can be repetitive and uninspired. I enjoyed the encouragement to take the whole process up a level, not by complicating gourmet cuisine, but by basic cooked-from-scratch traditional foods.
If you want a focused, neatly organized cookbook, the long, whimsical essays and seemingly random categorization of recipes will frustrate you. But the writing is lush, nostalgic, and informative, and the two recipes I have tried were relatively easy to follow and had tasty results.
This cookbook is attractive and full of wonderful stories by the author. However, I do not feel that I will get much use out of the cookbook as it's more of a "read and learn" than a "use and eat" type of cookbook.
another perfect example of a book that combines philosophy with cookery with the result of a flawless melding of the two. as a culinary professional, i have found this book to be incredibly inspiring. i have used the recipes and techniques in the book both at work and at home, with great success. sometimes when i am exhausted after a long days work, i just open this book for a pick me up, whether it is the story of his son's batteria (the balsamic vinegar array) or his charcuterie recipes (not found in many other cookbooks) or the spare illustrations (so rare in these days of gastro-porn) there is clearly something special about this book.
Out here on the west coast we pay a lot of attention to Thomas Keller and rightly so but Paul is every bite the Master and you will use more of his recipes. This is one of my favorite books. After Julia and before Thomas.
Great book about intuitive cooking. No flashy pictures, just good 'ol fashioned cooking in the old world tradition. The recipes on curing meats are worth it alone.
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